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 Post subject: flea 101
 Post Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 12:30 pm 
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The spring and summer months are flea season. Fleas flourish in temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees, with humidity in the 75 to 85 percent range.

In some locations flea season is year round. In others, the types of fleas that bother pets and people aren't considered a big problem.

If you live in an area where the little blood suckers thrive, you know controlling infestations is no laughing matter. It can often feel like a full-time job, in fact.

In order to successfully keep these parasites away from your yard, home and family members (both the two and four-legged kind), you have to attack the problem on several fronts.

* July 12, 2010

Dr. Becker's Comments:

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Fleas are an unpleasant annoyance, and while they don’t have the same deadly potential of other parasites, they can transmit tapeworms and even cause severe cases of anemia, especially in young animals.

Fighting a flea infestation can be challenging – especially when you’re determined to wage war without resorting to the use of toxic chemical agents in your home, yard or on your beloved pet. But be encouraged, because you can win the clean, green way with some knowledge, planning and experimentation.

So let’s get started.

When you’re preparing for battle, it’s helpful to have some good intelligence on the enemy …

Fleas 101

Fleas have a four-stage life cycle, as follows:

* Stage 1 – Egg. Adult fleas lay eggs on your pet – from 20 to 28 a day. These eggs drop off your dog or cat and grow wherever they land, which is often on your furniture, carpets, throw rugs, and other flooring.
* Stage 2 – Larva. This is what the egg turns into, little worm-like creatures. Larva hatch from flea eggs.
* Stage 3 – Pupa. The larva forms a pupae, a cocoon of sorts, inside which it moves through additional growth stages that can take anywhere from about 10 days all the way up to 200 to complete.
* Stage 4 – Adult. Adult fleas are what the pupae evolve to and they’re what you see on your pet. They live on average about six weeks, but they can live a whole lot longer than that. The only way to remove adult fleas from their natural habitat (your dog or cat) is to kill them or pick them off.

Fleas reproduce at an incredible rate. Ten female fleas can produce over 250,000 more fleas in a single month.

Estimates are that for every adult flea on your pet, there are around 10 more wherever your pet spends time. That’s why you must eliminate not only the adults on your dog or cat, but the eggs, larva and pupa in your home, yard and your pet’s bedding.

The pupa stage is the most problematic because the cocoon is quite resistant to agents that can kill fleas in the other stages of the life cycle.

The only way to eliminate pupa is by vacuuming them up and disposing of your vacuum’s contents right away. Even if you manage to kill all the adults, eggs and larvae, if you don’t get rid of the pupae, you’ll have more fleas in short order as the adults hatch from the pupae.

It takes about 45 days of diligent effort to fully resolve a flea infestation.

Fleas Aren’t Attracted to Healthy Dogs and Cats

Parasites are drawn to the weakest of the species. So the first battle to be engaged in your war on fleas is insuring your pet’s health is optimum and her immune system is strong.

A few things to keep in mind:

* Feeding a high quality, species appropriate diet is the foundation for your pet’s good health.
* Regular exercise helps your pet stay at a healthy weight and keeps her joints strong and her muscles toned.
* Over-vaccinating your pet can devastate immune system functioning, as can the overuse of drugs like antibiotics and corticosteroids.

If you’re in the middle of a major flea infestation, resolve that first using the following information. Then go back and take steps to bring your pet’s overall health to an optimum level.

The Most Important Weapon in Your Arsenal: The Flea Comb

Flea combing is one of the safest and best methods for removing adult fleas from your pet.

Comb your dog or cat at least daily on a white or other light colored towel so you can see what you’re removing. Drop the combings into a bowl or other container of soapy water and flush it down the toilet when your combing session is over.

Even when you’re no longer seeing fleas or flea residue on your pet, it’s a good idea to continue to comb him daily until you’re sure his environment is completely flea free.

Bathe your pet frequently (tips on shampoos and rinses can be found at the link) while you’re fighting a flea infestation. Fleas are less attracted to clean animals and the shampoo will kill any fleas on your pet if the water doesn’t get them first. The good news is even parasites can drown! Your dog or cat will feel better after a soothing bath as well.

Vacuum, Vacuum, Vacuum

Vacuuming all the areas of your house your pet has access to is the best and safest way to control fleas in your home. And it’s a virtual necessity for removing fleas in various growth stages so they don’t reach adulthood.

You should vacuum carpet, rugs, bare floors, furniture, pillows, your pet’s bedding and even your own if your pet sleeps with you.

Break out the crevice tool or other attachment and vacuum along the baseboards and around corners and the edges of furniture. You’ll also need to get to hard-to-reach and dark places like under furniture and beds, and in closets.

Dispose of the contents of your vacuum immediately, away from your house.

If possible designate one sleeping area for your pet, preferably an area that will be convenient to clean. Flea accumulations are often in pet sleeping spaces, so if you can limit your dog or cat to one area, it should make things a bit easier for you.

Pet bedding should be vacuumed daily if possible, and removed and washed frequently during a flea infestation.

If you use diatomaceous earth on your flooring to kill fleas (more on this below), be careful not to overdo it, as it has been known to clog vacuum cleaners.

Treating Your Environment

I don’t recommend chemical products to eliminate fleas in or outside your home except in extreme situations or when less harmful approaches have failed.

There are much safer flea eradication alternatives available, including:

* Diatomaceous earth (DE). You can apply a light dusting of food grade diatomaceous earth (DE) on your carpets, bare floors, your pet (take care not to get it in or near his eyes) and his bedding. Make sure the DE is food grade, not pool filter grade as the latter is toxic if ingested.

Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring porous rock composed of the shells of diatoms, which are one-celled algae with cell walls of silica. This light-colored, porous rock forms a fine white powder when crushed. The powder kills fleas by dehydrating them from the outside in.
* Cedar oil. Like diatomaceous earth, cedar oil can be applied to your environment and pet bedding, as well as directly on your dog or cat. It is an all-natural insect repellent. has a wealth of information about the use of cedar oil as well as a wide variety of cedar-based products for indoor, outdoor and direct pet application use.
* Sodium polyborate powder. You can apply this powder to your carpets and wood floors to get rid of fleas at the larval stage. Instructions at state you should keep pets and children out of the room while you’re applying the product, but they can come into the area safely immediately afterward. The powder works for a year once it’s applied unless you have your carpets steam cleaned.
* Mosquito Barrier. This is an all-natural, liquid garlic based solution that can be sprayed on your lawn. Its repellent effect should last about a month according to the manufacturer.
* Nematodes. Nematodes are microscopic roundworms that eat flea larvae. Many people have had success using them in their gardens and yards to keep the flea population under control.

Under the right conditions, nematodes work quite well. They can be applied with a lawn sprayer and have been known to reduce the flea population by 80 percent in 24 hours. More research is needed, but it seems nematodes are most effective in moist, sandy soil away from direct sunlight. The worms don’t survive in the hot sun. (Fortunately, neither do fleas.) Nematodes can be purchased at some pet stores, nurseries and online.

Treating Your Pet

It’s my firm belief that the dangers of chemical flea prevention products (sprays, powders, collars, dips, shampoos, pills, etc.) outweigh the benefits unless your pet’s health or comfort is being compromised.

Fortunately, with a little extra effort, it’s possible to keep your pet flea-free using safe, natural alternatives to “spot on” and similar types of toxic chemicals.

As I mentioned above, the flea comb is your number one weapon against the adult fleas on your pet that are busy making more fleas.

I also encourage you to work with a holistic veterinarian that can provide you with flea-fighting guidance as well as a number of different products for safe pest control.

Additional suggestions:

* Essential oil sprays containing lavender, peppermint, geranium, lemongrass or citronella can be very effective as parasite deterrents. You need to purchase a pre-blended product or work with an animal aromatherapist to make sure you’re using safe oils at the correct concentration. Dog and cat doses are different, and many cats are extremely sensitive to oils, so don’t guess.
* Fresh garlic can be given to dogs and cats to prevent internal as well as external parasites. Processed garlic has lost the quantity of allicin needed to repel pests. Work with your holistic vet to determine a safe amount for your pet’s body weight. You may have to start with considerably less than that amount if your kitty is finicky, then build up gradually to the recommended amount.
* Make sure your pet is getting B vitamins, preferably from natural sources like raw meat. If you want to use a supplement, a whole food B complex vitamin is a better choice than a synthetic variety. Brewer’s yeast (high in B vitamins) is often recommended to bolster vitamin B levels, but because many pets have allergies that are exacerbated by yeast, I don’t recommend using brewer’s yeast for allergic animals.
* You can put both food grade diatomaceous earth and cedar oil directly on your pet’s skin and coat. Follow label or package instructions on proper application. You can also add DE into your pet’s food.
* Ectopamine Spray is a relatively new all natural product made from essential oils that is working well for many pet owners.
* For pets with a serious case of flea allergy dermatitis (FAD), which means they are hyper sensitive to flea saliva, I prescribe a drug called Comfortis. It’s a chemical, unfortunately, but it’s considered the “greenest” of all similar drugs. I’ve yet to see a reaction to Comfortis in an FAD-afflicted patient. (see my next post. I wouldnt use Comfortis myself)

When a Chemical Preventive or Treatment is Unavoidable

I can’t overemphasize the need to avoid the unnecessary application of chemical products, as they are proving to be every bit as toxic as we feared.

However, if you’re faced with a situation in which you have no choice but to use a chemical pest preventive on your dog or cat, here are some ways you can reduce the danger:

* Follow dosing directions precisely. If your pet is at the low end of a dosage range, step down to the next lowest dosage. Be extremely cautious with small dogs and do not under any circumstances apply dog product to your cat.
* Don’t depend exclusively on chemical treatments. Rotate natural preventives with chemical ones. An every other month rotation works well for many pet owners. Many of my clients are able to apply one round of chemicals in the spring and another late summer and completely avoid infestation while dramatically reducing the frequency of chemicals used.
* Monitor your pet closely for adverse reactions after you apply a chemical product – especially when using one for the first time.
* Since your pet’s liver will be tasked with processing the chemicals that make it into the bloodstream, it can be very beneficial to give your dog or cat a supplement to help detoxify her liver. I recommend milk thistle, which is a detox agent and also helps to actually regenerate liver cells.

You can get milk thistle through your holistic vet, who should also guide you on how much to give your pet depending on age, weight and other prescribed medications. I recommend one dose daily for seven days following any flea, tick or heartworm application.
* I also recommend chlorella, a super green food that is a very powerful detox agent. Your holistic vet should also advise you about how much chlorella to give your pet.

If you use both these cleansing products throughout the summer, you can help protect your pet’s liver from the toxic effects of chemical pest preventives. ... 2620_.aspx



"You did then what you knew how to do, and when you knew better, you did
Maya Angelou

"You have enemies? Good, that means you stood up for something in your life!"
Winston Churchill

 Post subject: Re: flea 101
 Post Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 12:39 pm 
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Comfortis: This is a message that I received from a friend.

I hope this will keep someone from losing the love of their life!!! I lost Mia (Treceder's I've Got It All) on July the 11, 2009 at 3:30 Am from using Comfortis.. This is the first and LAST time I will ever use it.
For those of you that don't know what Comfortis is, it is used to kill fleas and it is a chewable tablet.
I gave it to all my Boxers and my 2 Bull Terries. I gave it to them on a Thursday night with their meal. Darby started throwing up a couple hours later and then again Friday morning. Mia started throwing up Friday morning. Mia threw up 2 times and it was coming out like water out of a fire hose. What we did not know at the time was that she had thrown up so hard she tore her stomach loose. Some time during Friday night and Saturday morning her stomach twisted. We rushed her to the EMS vet, it's just 3 miles down the road from us, but we were too late. I also have 2 more Boxer puppies that have had upset stomachs from Comfortis and I'm just now getting them back to eating again..
I have talked to a Vet at Lilly, who makes this drug, and yes they do know it makes some dogs very sick and have had some twisted stomachs from other breeds. But I was told that what few problems where reported was within acceptable guide lines!!!
4 Boxers out of 6 at my house where made sick and 1 died from it. I don't call that acceptable.
Lilly has even called my Vet to see how healthy my dogs where. Mia was 8 1/2 years old and healthy as a horse, never missed a meal and if you did not finish your food, she would gladly help you finish it. She went everywhere with me. I bottle fed her...she was my baby and the love of my life.


Pride and John Riccardi
www.trecederboxers <http://www.trecederboxers/>. com



"You did then what you knew how to do, and when you knew better, you did
Maya Angelou

"You have enemies? Good, that means you stood up for something in your life!"
Winston Churchill

 Post subject: Re: flea 101
 Post Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 1:04 pm 
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repost on DE:Food grade diatomaceous earth has many uses. The information below will
tell you some of the differences in grades of diatomaceous earth, along
with information on how to use food grade diatomaceous earth.

Natural Diatomaceous Earth (DE) is the remains of microscopic one-celled
plants (phytoplankton) called diatoms that lived in the oceans and lakes
that once covered the western part of the US and other parts of the
world. These deposits are mined from underwater beds or from ancient
dried lake bottoms.

Diatomaceous earth is mined, milled, and processed into a myriad of
types for a large variety of uses. Filtering and filler are two main
uses but diatomaceous earth also ends up in paints, cosmetics, drugs,
chemical insecticides, etc. Because the milling produces different sized
and shaped particles, it is important not to use the filtering type for
agricultural purposes.

Pool filter grade diatomaceous earth has been heat and chemically
treated and will poison an animal or human who ingests it, so it is
always of utmost importance to only obtain food grade diatomaceous earth
to use in and around your household.

Diatoms (DE) are the grass of the oceans and lakes. Just as grass is the
staple food of earth animals. Diatoms (algae) are the food of the ocean
or fresh water grazers. Magnified 7000x, diatomaceous earth looks like
spiney honeycombs.

Food grade diatomaceous earth is EPA approved to be mixed with grains to
control mealworms and other pests and has been exempted from tolerance
requirements as an inert, inactive ingredient in chemical pesticides.
Diatomaceous earth is EPA approved against indoor and outdoor crawling
insects. Diatomaceous earth is USDA approved as an anti-caking agent for
animal feed. Diatomaceous earth is FDA approved for internal and
external use and has a rating of Food Chemical Codex Grade.

DISCLAIMER: Any food grade diatomaceous earth uses other than those
approved by the EPA, FDA, or USDA are strictly reports of what farmers,
others, and we ourselves have done with diatomaceous earth.
Additionally, the following material is not intended as a substitute for
the advice of a physician or vet. This information is not intended as a
substitute for the reader's independent judgment and personal
responsibility. Health issues are far too important to delegate to
anyone else. It is highly recommended you seek information and counsel
from as wide a variety of sources as possible, as in the end YOU make
the decisions.

Our diatomaceous earth is Codex Food Chemical Grade. It is a
non-treated, non-milled, non-calcined fresh water form of Diatomaceous
Earth and is pure white in color. It contains less than 1% silicon.
There are food grade diatomaceous earth products that are yellow or tan
in color which indicates a higher iron content. Those which are gray in
color contain more clay.

INTERNAL PARASITE CONTROL: Food grade diatomaceous earth makes a very
effective natural insecticide. The insecticidal quality of diatomaceous
earth is due to the razor sharp edges of the diatom remains. When
diatomaceous earth comes in contact with the insects, the sharp edges
lacerate the bugs waxy exoskeleton and then the powdery diatomaceous
earth absorbs the body fluids causing death from dehydration.

Food grade diatomaceous earth has been used for at least two decades as
a natural wormer for livestock. Some believe diatomaceous earth
scratches and dehydrates parasites. Some scientists believe that
diatomaceous earth is a de-ionizer or de-energizer of worms or
parasites. Regardless, people report definite control. To be most
effective, food grade diatomaceous earth must be fed long enough to
catch all newly hatching eggs or cycling of the worms through the lungs
and back to the stomach. A minimum of 60 days is suggested by many, 90
days is advised for lungworms.

Food grade diatomaceous earth works in a purely physical/mechanical
manner, not 'chemical' and thus has no chemical toxicity. Best yet,
parasites don't build up a tolerance/immunity to its chemical reaction,
so rotation of wormers unnecessary.

DOGS, O.C. Collins, DVM, Midland Animal Clinic And Hospital, Midland,
TX:"In clinical observations of feeding dogs over 35 lbs. 1 tbsp./day
and under 35 lbs. 1 tsp./day of DE, within seven days all ova
disappeared from stools. DE controlled Ascardis (Toxacara canids),
Hookworms (Anclyostoma caninum), and Whipworms (Trichuris vulipis)."

HORSE, L. Thomas, Trainer, L. Frank Roper Stables, Winter Garden, FL:
"With horses fed approximately 5 oz. of DE mixed in the feed twice
daily, the following results were observed: Stopped scours even on
horses that had not responded to any other medications. Noticeable fly
reduction. Horses showed an increase in appetites. Weight gain due to
better feed conversion. Reduction in manure odor. Elimination of any
internal parasites. Healthier appearance.

Daily recommended food grade diatomaceous earth feeding rates:

Kittens - 1/2 teaspoon
Cats - 1 teaspoon
Puppies - 1/2 to 1 tsp.
Dogs under 35 lbs. - 1 teaspoon
Dogs over 35 lbs. - 1 tablespoon
Dogs over 100 lbs. - 2 tablespoons
Cattle, Dairy Cows, & Hogs - 2% of dry feed ration
Chickens - 5% in feed
Goats & Sheep - 2% in grain
Horses - 1/2 to 1 cup in daily ration
*Humans - 1 heaping tablespoon daily

Internal feeding of food grade diatomaceous earth helps eliminate most
internal worms, though possibly not all. It's also excellent when fed
daily to keep down fly loads, since food grade diatomaceous earth is
eliminated from the body, exactly the way it went in, it helps reduce
the manure odor and kills flies that come in contact with it.

Mix in animal feed or grain and/or feed free choice. Our goats, fowl,
and dogs eat it free choice.

*Some recommend to dose humans by mixing food grade diatomaceous earth
in a glass of water before bed or first thing in the morning, well
before breakfast, to allow diatomaceous earth time to move through and
absorb toxins from one's digestive tract without interfering or
absorbing nutrients from foods or liquids. Some report great results
consuming 1 tsp. in a glass of water prior to each meal, 3x/day.

If fecal counts are not zero for worms and ova after feeding DE for 30
days, increase the daily dose. Feeding too small a dose of DE will not
give desired results. Increasing the dose, even if greater than the
above recommendations, will not harm anyone. Some horses do fine on 1/2
cup of DE daily, others need a full cup. This reminds us, that all
beings are different. So again, if the worm and ova counts are not zero,
increase your daily dose.

diatomaceous earth into pets coat, fur, and bedding to dehydrate fleas,
lice, mites, and ticks. Dust them lightly, but thoroughly, as in order
to kill the parasites, they must come in contact with the DE. Note,
external application can take up to 72 hours to dehydrate external

Lightly sprinkle in household carpet. Leave for 2-3+ days, then vacuum.
Please do not get heavy handed with the DE in your carpet, as I have
heard from some people advising it causes problems with their vacuum.

PLEASE NOTE: Many people advise using ONLY food grade diatomaceous earth
eliminates a flea problem, but we cannot say that it does this for
everyone. If you are dealing with a flea infestation, we usually
recommend food grade DE in the household carpet, pet bedding, on the
pets, and outside in the dry areas where fleas congregate. But in the
moist areas, such as lawns, gardens, etc., we have always recommended
using beneficial/parasitic nematodes. These microscopic nematodes
parasitize flea larvae. DE, as far as we know, only kills the adult
fleas that come in contact with it. So DE possibly does not kill flea

It is said that only 5 to 15% of a flea infestation are the adult fleas
that you see. The remaining 85 to 95% of your infestation are the larvae
waiting to hatch!! As such, and although we have many customers who
advise using only food grade diatomaceous earth worked to eliminate
their flea problem, we still recommend using the food grade DE in
conjunction with beneficial nematodes in outdoor moist areas.

BOXES: We use DE throughout the barn, fowl coops, and pastures. When
mucking the barn and coops, I lightly, but thoroughly sprinkle
diatomaceous earth absolutely everywhere! It keeps the kidding barn
"cleansed" and dry. In between barn mucking, I sprinkle diatomaceous
earth on wet spots to help dry them out and keep flies from laying eggs.

Food grade diatomaceous earth is excellent in the fowl coops -- on the
ground, in nesting/dusting boxes to prevent lice and mites. Sprinkle
directly on fowl feathers to eliminate mites and lice. One application
of diatomaceous earth has their feathers growing back quickly.

Food grade diatomaceous earth applied to manure piles keeps fly loads

Dairy cow owners put food grade diatomaceous earth in burlap bags, so
cows can rub against it and sprinkle themselves with DE, which helps to
eliminate flies, that land on them, as well as lice and mites.

Apply to moist kennel areas to reduce odors, dry the area, and prevent
pest breeding.

Deodorizing and absorption are natural functions of diatomaceous earth,
so add to kitty litter to absorb odors and keep the litter box drier.

A small amount of food grade DE applied to livestock waterers keeps
algae from growing on hot summer days.

Food grade diatomaceous earth is great for compost piles, to prevent
breeding pests and control odors.

YARD, GARDEN, & LANDSCAPE APPLICATIONS: DE's minerals are great for the
yard and gardens.

Apply DE to ant hills. Small ants may require a few applications to
completely eliminate them, as they burrow new hills elsewhere, when we
plug their initial hill with DE, but if we keep at it, eventually they
disappear. Big ants are eliminated within two applications of a
reasonable amount of DE applied to their ant hill. Ants in trash cans
can be controlled by either painting DE around the bottom of the trash
can or sprinkling it dry around it. They'll go elsewhere, as they do not
like walking over DE, so you'll need to find their home to completely
eliminate them, but it will keep them away from areas you put DE.
Sprinkled around the house foundation keeps new crawling insects from
coming inside.

We mix food grade diatomaceous earth with water to paint our fruit tree
trunks with it, like a white wash. The DE keeps ants OFF our fruit
trees. 1 cup applied to ½ gallon of water works well. Good as a white
wash for wood fencing too.

1 to 2 cups per gallon of water can be used to apply diatomaceous earth
in a backpack or hose end sprayer for problem infestations of mites,
aphids, fungus problems, etc. Food grade diatomaceous earth will turn
whatever you paint or spray with it white -- so it may look like a
"white" winter at your place.

caterpillars, cut worms, army worms, fleas, ticks, cockroaches, snails,
spiders, termites, scorpions, silver fish, lice, mites, flies,
centipedes, earwigs, slugs, aphids, Japanese beetles (grub stage), fruit
flies, corn earworm, cucumber beetles, corn borer, sting bugs, squash
vine borers, thrips, loopers, etc., etc.

MINERALIZATION: Natural food grade diatomaceous earth contains 15 trace
minerals: calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, copper, zinc iron,
phosphorous, selenium, etc. People note shinier coats, better overall
health, better production, etc. in their animals who are fed food grade
diatomaceous earth regularly.

FLY CONTROL: Used regularly, DE has pretty much eliminated our fly
population here. Sprinkle DE on livestock when flies are present. Dust
barns, coops, after mucking and throw on top of manure/compost piles. We
feed it daily to all dogs, cats, fowl, and livestock, so it comes out in
the manure of each animal as well and prevents flies from growing in the
manures. DE is our only fly preventative. We no longer use or need fly
bags, fly predators/parasites, fly tapes, or sprays.

Farmers keep hanging burlap bags full of diatomaceous earth for the
cattle to rub against and keep themselves dusted, which eliminates flies
that land on them.

Diatomaceous earth can be put in a backpack sprayer mixed with water to
spray your barn or coop buildings. Reapply DE when rain or water washes
or wind blows it away.

GRAIN STORAGE & PROTECTION: Codex food grade diatomaceous earth is a
healthy non-toxic alternative to chemical contamination of stored grain.
When the grain is to be used, food grade diatomaceous earth can be
easily removed, but need not be. Since it is "food grade", makes no
difference in taste or cooking quality, and adds 15 trace minerals.
Suggested grain storage use: 1 cup of DE will protect 50 #'s of grain --
5 cups of food grade diatomaceous earth will protect 300 #'s of grain --
7 lbs. of DE will protect 1500 #'s of grain or seeds. One source advises
only 1 to 2 #'s of DE per ton of grain.

A study done by ACRES, USA, Inc. advised that after 12 months of
storage, the food grade diatomaceous earth treated material had 15
insects, compared to 4884 for malathion and 16,994 for untreated grain.

MORE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH BENEFITS: Food grade diatomaceous earth has been
reported in scientific literature to absorb methyl mercury, e-coli,
endotoxins, viruses (including poliovirus), organophosphate pesticide
residues, drug resides, and protein, perhaps even the proteinaceous
toxins produced by some intestinal infections. Food grade diatomaceous
earth detoxes.

There are some features about food grade diatomaceous earth that
correspond with its ability as both a digestive aid and a colon
cleanser. The honeycomb skeletal form of diatomaceous earth is found,
under microscopic evaluation to reveal a tendency to become filled and
clogged with hard debris such as intestinal scale. Food grade
diatomaceous earth has not been found to cause any insult to the mucousa
or barrier wall.

Diatomaceous earth has a negative charge and bacteria has a positive
charge, wherein it is believed by some that food grade diatomaceous
earth sweeps bacteria out of the body by trapping it in it's honeycomb
shaped skeletal form.

There is no withdrawal period when given to milking or feed animals. No
toxins. Decreased mortality, increased milk production, decreased
mastitis, better feed conversion.


· DE manufacturers who work in diatomaceous earth mines 5 days/week
advise inhaling it is not a problem (tho of course, don't be snuffing
it) and we have not had problems when inhaling DE in small amounts. IF
you have asthma or some other lung ailment, either wear a mask or be
very careful when using food grade diatomaceous earth.

· Do NOT get diatomaceous earth in the eyes. DE is drying to the eyes,
so do NOT put it out when you or your pets are down wind of it. DE is
drying to your skin, hands, and feet, just as it can be to your pets.

· Do NOT give to very small pregnant animals such as cats, guinea pigs,
etc. and do NOT feed continually to babies or small animals such as
cats, hamsters, etc. DE can be fed on a continuous basis to larger
animals and livestock for continuous parasite control and mineralization.

· Do NOT use heavily in carpet. Some advise too much DE causes vacuum

· NEVER use pool filter grade DE around animals. It can poison or kill them.

· Some people experience a healing crisis (detox reaction) when
beginning DE consumption. If this occurs, reduce the dose, till your
body is cleansed, and then increase to the RDA.

· Remember, DE will kill beneficial insects as well, so use accordingly.


· Natural wormer -- eliminates many parasites without chemicals
· Safe, non-toxic, parasites don't build immunity as they do with
traditional wormers
· 15 trace minerals -- great for animals, humans, plants, and soil
· No feed withdrawal for milk or feed animals
· Decreased mastitis
· Reduced scours
· Decreased mortality
· Better feed conversion
· Helps detox heavy metals, ecoli, bacteria, viruses, etc.
· Promotes shinier coats
· Digestive aid
· Colon cleanser
· Better production
· Better overall health
· Eliminates pests in stored grains
· Reduces flies, fleas, ticks, etc.
· Reduces manure odor
· Drying agent
· Reduces moisture and pests in barns, coops, kennel, litterboxes,
compost piles, and other moist areas
· Antifungal properties -- good for garden fungal growth
· Reduces overall animal stress
· Cost effective
· DE health benefits mean reduction in vet bills and dis-ease

I have an article that goes into the stages of heartworms and how EVERYTHING has to be in just right for a dog to get infected with them. I havent found it yet, but I will and I will post it when I do. Heartworm is another thing that the vets and chemical companies love to scare dog owners with. At the vets office you see this awful picture of a heart all infested with heartworms and then they make you think that if you dont test for heartworm and then treat for heartworms, that your dog is bound to die of a horrible death. Then, they have a map up showing all the cases of heartworm in the state. What more could they do to scare you into treating your dog??

I dont condemn people who use poisons and I have done it many times. Its just that as you learn that there are better ways to treat our dogs, then I think that we should at least try them. Every time I think about pouring ivermectin on a dogs back, I think about what it would be like to pour it on my own skin. Its the same thing. Chemicals are no better for our dogs, than ourselves. I realize that sometimes they are necessary, but not nearly as much as we have been led to believe.

"You did then what you knew how to do, and when you knew better, you did
Maya Angelou


"You did then what you knew how to do, and when you knew better, you did
Maya Angelou

"You have enemies? Good, that means you stood up for something in your life!"
Winston Churchill

 Post subject: Re: flea 101
 Post Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 1:28 am
Posts: 285
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Also helps when you have wooden floors in the house instead of carpeting. Carpeting harbors all kinds of nasty stuff. So glad I have the wooden floors. Easier to clean up too!

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